Monday, Tuesday & Wednesday, 20-22 October. Bologna
Early Monday we left Ortona and headed to Pescara to turn in the rental car and catch the train to Bologna. All went well and we arrived around 2:00PM. We met our host and were all checked in by 2:30 or so. We have another of those “exercise” apartments — 65 steps up, top floor, but quite nice and once again, we have the rooftop terrace! It’s part of one of the many old palaces in this old or ‘storico” part of town. Lots of side benefits though as we are on one of the main shopping streets, are maybe five blocks off the town Centro, and just about ten blocks away from the University, which just happens to be the oldest in the world. A really nice aspect of being here is that most of the streets are lined with these old palaces (really, residences of the wealthy.)
Our apartment on Via Luigi Carlo Farini. We are on the inside or courtyard side of the building so virtually no street noise.
Our rooftop terrace.
Basilica and bell tower of San Giovanni in Monte Church from our rooftop balcony.
Looking down one of the walkways along Via Carlo Luigi Farini in Bologna
Another view of the buildings/palazzos lining Via Farini
Can you imagine your local town shopping area or even the mall having walkways like this? And they are everywhere.
Tuesday we headed out on the sightseeing bus, the same type we’ve been riding around all the cities we have visited. It’s a great way to see the cities and get the lay of the land without getting too lost. I wish I could say it worked; we still get lost! The tour took us into some of the nicer residential areas which were really beautiful. Bologna really has several different looks, all of which are very beautiful.
Fran and Connie ready to go on our bus top tour of the city
Piazza Maggiore. The Palazzo del Podestà where several commune offices are located is on one side, the Palazzo d’Accursio is on another and the Basilica di San Petronio is on the third side.
Basilica di San Petronio. Here’s an example of what happens when the locals run out of money. The main structure was completed but the marble facing was not.
View of the city from Saint Michael’s Church on a hill in the residential area overlooking the city.
After our tour we decided to take a little walk and see the University, holy cow it’s huge. There are so many students, so many buildings, taking up a good part of Bologna and it really was nice. I cannot imagine going to a University as large as this one. It is the oldest university in the world. The architecture in Bologna is fabulous and it’s pleasant to walk around the city.
View of the Basilica of Saint James Maggiore from the center of the University of Bologna
Along via Zamboni back into the University, oldest in the world and founded in 1068
The Asinelli and Garisenda Towers in central Bologna. The towers were built as a competition between the two families. Construction had to be stopped on the shorter tower on the right as it was discovered that the tower was leaning and would soon topple.
San Giovanni in Monte with the University School of Music on the right. The church is dedicated to music as well as its religious commitments.
Il Crocifisso della Sindone or Crucifix of the Shroud, by Luigi Mattei, in the San Giovanni in Monte Church
We found a nice little restaurant for lunch and called that our meal of the day. We each had a traditional Bolognese pasta dish and they were most enjoyable.
Mortadella, our appetizer — well, what’s left of the two servings! And yes, it was consumed as well!
Bologna is famous for its tortellini – this one alla borganese, as recommended.
Tortelloni is another bolognese favorite, here stuffed with rigotta and spinach and served with mushrooms, or what was left at the time we remembered to take pictures!
Three people / three primi courses for lunch. This is the tagliatelle alla bolognese.
Walked back to the apartment and after a while, Connie and I decided to go out to do some shopping. Turned out to be a bust. We are trying to figure out what the designers are thinking when they put out the new fashions for the season! Truly ridiculous! I bought a pair of earrings and Connie bought a small purse. Hardly a good shopping day!
We made up for it by finding a beauty salon, walked in and they were able to color and cut our hair for us right away! Now that was our find of the day. Jim chuckled when I called to tell him we’d be a little late and why – it’s almost impossible to get your hair done on the same day in the US! I will be polite here and say we both really needed this day – our hair was looking a little worse for wear. There was a guy and a gal in the salon and we had a great time figuring out what color they should use and I finally said – do what you think is best. Hey, it’s only hair! Everything they did was asked before it was done because they did not want to mess up our hair – like that was possible? It was already a mess!
After much discussion in English and Italian they got to work and the finished product was fantastic. We each loved the color and the cut — they pretty much nailed it! The gal wanted to put some make up on us (free of charge.) She said we needed a little color so we said sure, do whatever you want. She was good, light on makeup and we were pleased with the final result.
The ladies after their visit to the beauty parlor
Now it was time to show Jim – we walked home and he took one look and said wow! They did a great job! Oh he’s so kind! So we had a good day and now we don’t have to worry about flying home with nasty hair!
On Wednesday we did a little more walking, taking in a couple of more churches and checking out buildings and stores we hadn’t hit on yesterday. At one church, San Paolo Maggiore, we ran into an Italian lady who insisted we come back tomorrow, Thursday, to see one particular oratorio (open only on Thursday and Saturday.) We picked up on the requirement but not really what was inside. We think it has something to do with the Shroud of Turin. We’ll see tomorrow before we leave.
Basilica di San Domenico — fairly plain from the outside
The main altar in the Basilica di San Domenico. The hanging chandeliers do indeed step up so the highest are at the top level of the painting behind the altar
Chapel where San Domenico is entombed, located in the Basilica di San Domenico
Altar at Chiesa di San Paolo Maggiore along with the sculpture of the beheading of Saint Paul. That tabernacle on the altar was one of the more beautiful we’ve seen.
Jim and I then walked over to the train station to pick up our tickets for the train ride to Parma in the morning. It’s about a half hour walk to the station and the exercise was good, particularly on a day like today as we must have had a cold front come through. The day was clear and sunny but cool and windy. Our first day where the coats had to come out.
We picked up Connie and had lunch at a little trattoria about four doors up the street from our own. Quite the staff — two men, appeared to be father and son. Food and wine were good. We had a little more traditional pasta, including lasagna this time. Light night tonight but with a little prosciutto and cheese along with a salad, breadsticks and of course, wine.
Connie and I then broke loose again, this time looking for a jacket for Connie. We picked up a nice little silver horn, the Italian charm for good luck and warding off the bad stuff, for Jim. All Italian men should have one! Maybe it will help him with keeping us from getting “misplaced” when we are walking around these cities!
Ciao from Bologna – pick it up again in Parma – hmmmmm the city of Parmesan Cheese – should be really yummy!
Holy cow. I did the last two places at one time. How do you spell all the places you go correctly????? What a beautiful trip you have had and I have enjoyed it so much. Love the pictures now that I can click them up larger and I check you out on the larger screen. Love the hair cuts and color – I agree with Aldofo (sp) you do need a little meat on those bones – not fat, just meat, but you weren’t meant to be so, so keep eating, girlie!!!! Catch you later. I’m leaving for PA on Monday, so packing is in order. Love and miss you! xoxox
Oh, was this just to be a comment????