Europe 2014

Monteferrante, Italy

Friday, Saturday, Sunday, 17-19 October.  Monteferrante, Abruzzo

Friday it was time to leave Naples. Hopped in a taxi to Hertz for the rental car and off we go on our way to Monteferrante. The drive was absolutely beautiful and again very different from other areas of Italy. Never knowing what to expect and always finding the beauty of Italy, is a great experience.

We drove to ‎⁨Francavilla al Mare⁩ near Ortona which was the location of our hotel on the sea. It is another beautiful area and was very quiet since the tourist season is now over. We walked on the beach, took some photos and had a great fish lunch at the hotel.

This was to be our meal of the day but that didn’t work. We got hungry again  so we ventured out in the car and found a restaurant up the road that was open. Turned out to be a wonderful find. We were the only ones in there (after all it was only 7pm and by Italian standards, this is way too early to eat dinner), but for us it turned out to be a lot of fun. The restaurant is family owned, and since we were the only customers, we got all their attention. We decided to share a pasta dish, fish dish, dessert. They brought out the pasta and we met the chef who informed us that he never splits meals like this so we were very special. Turned out this chef was a top chef at the Phoenician Resort in Scottsdale, AZ! So now in addition to meeting an artist, a sculptor and a tenor, we can add a famous chef to our list of celebrities. We feel very special now.

A few shots of the beach/Adriatic Sea area.

Adriatic Sea Coast and beach at Ortona

Adriatic Sea Coast and beach at ‎⁨Francavilla al Mare⁩

Fran & Jim at Ortona beach

Fran & Jim at ‎⁨Francavilla al Mare⁩ beach

Connie & Fran at Ortona beach

Connie & Fran at ‎⁨Francavilla al Mare⁩ beach

Saturday was our day to visit Monteferrante, the home of mom’s family. The drive to Monteferrante was unbelievable. The roads were uphill, extremely curvy with gorgeous views. I had a death grip on the arm of the door because we were close to the edge of the road and there were no guard rails as we climbed higher and higher to the top of the mountain.  We pulled over to capture a few photos before arriving in Monteferrante.

Elevated autostradale in the valley west of Monteferrante. That might be the town of Berardinelli in the center of the photo

Elevated autostradale in the valley west of Monteferrante. 

Valley West of Monteferrante along with Lake Bomba

Valley West of Monteferrante along with Lake Bomba

We arrived in Monteferrante, a small village that currently has 70 families living on top of this beautiful mountain where everyone knows each other! When we arrived, it was obvious we were newcomers to the area and they were expecting us. We parked our car, grabbed a bottle of water at the little store and walked around the area because Adolfo, our cousin, was out on his morning walk. The village is so quaint but the streets are all newly brick paved and everything was so clean and beautiful. We took many photos of the village and its gorgeous surrounding areas. We are constantly amazed at the beauty of each place we visit and how everything can be so different and pleasing to the eye. A few shots of the area.

We arrive at the home town, the roots, of the Berardinelli family

We arrive at the home town, the roots, of the Berardinelli family

Top of the town looking down to the Centro. The only restaurant in town is the yellow building at the end of the street and across the Centro.

Top of the town looking down to the Centro. The only restaurant in town is the yellow building at the end of the street and across the Centro.

The main road in Monteferrante, up from the Centro but not yet as high as the church

The main road in Monteferrante, up from the Centro but not yet as high as the church

Break between houses along with the stairway down, with a view out into the western valley

Break between houses along with the stairway down, with a view out into the western valley

Looking back towards the Monteferrante Centro on the way up to the church/castle and top of the hill

Looking back towards Monteferrante Centro on the way up to the church/castle and top of the hill

Connie and Fran at the door to the church where their mother’s family prayed and records are maintained at the top of the hill in Monteferrante — their roots!

Connie and Fran at the door to the church where their mother’s family prayed and records are maintained at the top of the hill in Monteferrante — their roots!

Having walked to the top of the hill and town where the church is located, we started back down to the Centro piazza where there is a fountain with a circular bench that you can sit at and there Adolfo was sitting, waiting for us. We discovered that Adolfo is the son of our grandfather’s sister and to say that he was beyond happy to see us is a huge understatement! He just couldn’t believe that we actually came to Italy and took the effort to go to our mother’s famiglia’s home town to meet our relatives! We were in for an afternoon that we never expected and it was unbelievable. I said in my blog from San Giovanni Gemini (dad’s famiglia roots) that I left a piece of my heart there. Well I have to say that I left a chunk of my heart in Monteferrante as well after meeting the family and all they did for us!

Here is a shot of Adolfo with me and Connie – his looks reminded us so much of our grandfather, stature, personality and looks, it felt so awesome.

Adolpho Ambrosini with Connie and Fran at the fountain, Monteferrante Centro

Adolfo Ambrosini with Connie and Fran at the fountain, Monteferrante Centro

Adolfo took us to his house which was just beautiful. We were surprised by the size of it and the size of the rooms as well.

Adolpho Ambrosini’s home in Monteferrante. It includes the tall building in the center and the structure to the left with the balcony

Adolpho Ambrosini’s home in Monteferrante. It includes the tall building in the center and the structure to the left with the balcony

He has a beautiful view of the mountains and valley beyond, a balcony that overlooks the street and like many places in Italy, it’s easy to stand on your balcony and talk to your neighbors or in his case, his sister!

Maria Giangiordano, Adolpho Ambrosini’s sister-in-law, talking with Connie and Fran from her balcony across from Adolpho’s home in Monteferrante

Maria Giangiordano, Adolpho Ambrosini’s sister-in-law, talking with Connie and Fran from her balcony across from Adolpho’s home in Monteferrante

She wanted to meet us so we went on the balcony and chatted and even with our limited Italian, we knew what she was saying and it ended with – we were going to her house after we had lunch! A direct order – yes but said with a smile!

Adolpho Ambrosini at home in his kitchen

Adolfo Ambrosini at home in his kitchen

Jim and Adolpho in the Ambrosini home

Jim and Adolfo in the Ambrosini home

We stayed at Adolfo’s house for a bit because he was showing us all the rooms and all his things. We sat in the dining room, which was a good size and held a table large enough to seat 8, and he showed us pictures of the family. This one in particular caught our eye because it is a photo of the men with our grandfather on one of his visits. We just could not believe it!

Giovanni Berardinelli with townsfolk during one of his visits to Monteferrante

Giovanni Berardinelli (2nd from right) with townsfolk during one of his visits to Monteferrante

We also got to see all the musical instruments: three accordions, one of which he proceeded to play for us, and we have on video, mandolin, guitar, flute, piano, you name it he had it and everyone in the family plays these instruments. When a family member from the States comes to visit, they plan a big feast and there is tons of food, music, dancing in the streets and everyone is invited. It is one huge party. Since they did not have the exact date of our arrival early on, we had no feast per say but to us what we had was a feast in itself!

Fran and Connie go oaver photos and take down family history with Adolpho Ambrosini in his very nice home in Monteferrante

Fran and Connie go over photos and take down family history with Adolfo Ambrosini in his very nice home in Monteferrante

After a few minutes I lost track of the hugs and kisses and yes it’s kisses to both cheeks! This is much more fun than a handshake! Adolfo’s biggest thing with me – he kept feeling my arm and telling me I needed to spend more time in the cucino and eating to gain some weight! My husband and my sister thought this was extremely funny – you all know how I feel about gaining a ton of weight! 🙂

The restaurant Adolfo took us to for lunch, the only one in town, had wonderful food and we sat there for several hours eating course after course, after course. We were so stuffed we didn’t think we’d be able to move after this fantastic meal. We met more of the locals and they were so excited to think that the family from the US would take time from their trip in Italy to go up to Monteferrante. We gained a lot of brownie points and oh yeah, more hugs and kisses. Even Jim got a lot of kisses from both men and women! He is now a bonafide ‘almost’ Italian!  We were so overwhelmed with the reception we received and the love, it was extremely emotional. Poor Adolfo came to tears a few times, he was so overcome by our visit. Hard for me to keep from balling my eyes out!

Ristorante La Fontana where we ate an awesome lunch and met many of the townspeople, several who are related to Fran and Connie or others in New Jersey

Adolpho and other of our new friends from Monteferrante, all wanting us to come back next summer.

Adolfo and other of our new friends from Monteferrante, all wanting us to come back next summer.

Adolpho and Fran in one of their moments of humor, and bonding.

Adolfo and Fran in one of their moments of humor, and bonding.

Connie had her bonding moments with Adolpho as well -- like sharing her reading glasses with him.

Connie had her bonding moments with Adolpho as well — like sharing her reading glasses with him.

Fran, Connie and Adolfo discuss cooking and other topics after we finished lunch at the Ristoranta La Fontana

Connie and I became members of the Museum of Monteferrante  (yes, they have a museum in the village) – we have the membership cards to prove it. In San Giovanni Gemini, I was Francesca Capodici and Connie was Concetta Capodici. In Monteferrante, I am Francesca Berardinelli and Connie is Concetta Berardinelli. Pretty darn cool if you ask me and Jim even thought that was awesome!

After our meal of the day, we went to visit Adolfo’s sister where cake and drinks were set on the table. By this time, Connie and I just looked at each other and hoped they didn’t hear our groan because we truly didn’t think we’d be able to eat one more thing so to avoid bad feelings, we ate what we could and just had to leave the rest. Adolfo’s sister Maria was really cool, I think older than Adolfo but I really couldn’t tell. He’s 82 and she was somewhere around there as well. She had all her wits about her and gave him such a time and we all laughed. She really liked us and loved that we were giving Adolfo a hard time too. Again, Adolfo kept grabbing my arm and letting everyone know I needed to eat more and put meat on my bones.

Adolfo, Fran, Connie and Maria with extended family at Maria’s home

There was very little English spoken so Connie and I had to work very hard to get the gist of the conversations but all in all, we did a good job. It was hard to get every word but we were able to understand where the conversation was going and knew they wanted us to stay the night with them and Adolfo did not want to take no for an answer but his sister finally yelled at him with a smile and we all cracked up laughing.

Fran, Adolfo and Connie

Fran, Adolfo and Connie

The end of the day was met with a promise to get the whole family to Monteferrante next year where we would have our very own ‘family feast’ with food, music and dancing in the street with the whole village! It is a promise of something so memorable, we will treasure it for years! So now we have to convince the whole family that this is a great idea and they all need to jump on board with us. Yes  brother Jimmy, that means your family as well!  We told them we would do our best to get everyone there for this feast and I think it is the only way we were able to leave the town without being held hostage.

I thank my husband for setting up a trip to our family roots. My sister and I will NEVER forget it! Of course he had just as much fun as we did and they loved him because he ate and drank whatever they gave him – he’s a trooper!

Arrivederci, Monteferrante

Arrivederci, Monteferrante

Sunday – a day to relax, pack and eat again! We had lunch at the same restaurant we ate at Friday night and each had a pasta or risotto dish which hopefully will hold us until morning since we ate later in the afternoon.

Montepulciano vino, tagliatelle, ravioli and risotto at lunch on Sunday - last meal and wine in Abruzzo

Montepulciano vino, tagliatelle, ravioli and risotto at lunch on Sunday – last meal and wine in Abruzzo

A few last minute selfies and photos of the three travelers! We really are having fun!

Connie, Jim and Fran on the shores of the Adriatic Sea

Fran and Jim taking a selfie on the beach

I realize you all must think all we do is eat but we are in Italy and we must do as the Italians do, eat and talk so we are fitting in quite nicely. Italy is all about the food, the laughter, the chatter and of course the hand gestures – and oh yeah the kissing!

Please enjoy our photos with comments – we are off to Bologna in the morning.

Ciao, Ciao, Ciao as they say in Italy!

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3 thoughts on “Monteferrante, Italy

  1. fran august says:

    Oh everything sounds wonderful !!! Scenery is beautiful and it looks like none of you have gained an ounce by your pictures so keep eating and drinking and having a great time.

  2. Jim Capodice says:

    Enjoyed reading about trip to montaferrante will think about next year but it might be a little difficult with upcoming wedding. Luv ya both Jim and Cindy

  3. Juli Abbott says:

    Fran, this post brought tears to my eyes. What a wonderful experience! Small towns will do that. I’m so glad you were able to visit and connect with family. I’m up for a trip to Montaferrante with you!

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