Saturday thru Tuesday, 4-7 Ottobre.  Pizzo, Salerno, Positano and Capri

We said our final arrivederci’s to Sicilia Saturday morning, picking up Connie and then driving across the northern part of Sicily to Messina. We boarded a ferry at the port and “sailed” across the Ionian Sea to Villa San Giovanni on the mainland where we picked up another highway to the little town of Pizzo on the coast. Driving out of Palermo and into Messina was uneventful and the highways were pretty much like our interstates, complete with rest/refuel areas — even a toll across the top of Sicily.

Pizzo is a small town — summer vacation kind of spot. We spent Saturday night here as it is about halfway to Salerno. The hotel had two large banquet rooms and quite a few sleeping rooms. There were only the three of us in a triple room and an elderly Italian couple in another room, right next door of course, even though there had to be another hundred empty rooms. The location was quite nice, a bit off the beaten path but quiet, had a friendly staff and beautiful view of the sea.

We ate lunch at a beachside restaurant, Il Nave, and once more, we were part of a limited customer base — there were the three of us only. Clearly we are getting into the “low” season here.

Sunday we drove into Salerno, arriving a bit after noon. The route took us away from the coast and through some really pretty rolling hills and mountainous country. Our B&B in Salerno was right down along a very nice promenade and park along the harbor. Of course, we had the rental and could not turn it in until Monday so needed a parking garage. On top of that, we just could not find the B&B address. So, after driving around the extra long block once, we double-parked (since many others had), called our host who said he’d meet Jim in the street, and son-of-a-gun, he walked right out to the car — we were in front of the door to his place! Fran and Connie stayed at the B&B while Jim, with Matteo, the host, in the right seat, drove to the parking garage of one of his friends. Turns out Matteo is a well-known tenor who has performed on many of the major stages, including in New York, Las Vegas and Los Angeles.

After stashing our bags, another five floors up I might add, we headed out for lunch at a restaurant Matteo had shown Jim when they were walking back from the parking garage. Wonderful hosts and better food. Jim got his Branzino again — identical to the Branzino he had in Palermo, i.e., broiled with potato on top. We walked off lunch by visiting the duomo and walking the promenade.

Matteo made breakfast Monday morning, including the caffè, cappuchino and fresh squeezed orange juice. Jim took the car to Hertz for turn-in and Connie and I jumped into a car we had hired, headed to the train station (Hertz location) to pick up Jim, and then launched for the Amalfi Coast and Positano.

Our driver Nino was a good driver and tour guide. He also helped us with our Italian a good bit. The Amalfi Coast Highway is just like you’ve seen in Rick Steves videos or more likely, in the movies that have been filmed in this area. Narrow, right on the edge, and sometimes, even in the curves, a big bus coming in your direction! Obviously, we arrived safely. Oh, the car? Well, it was just easier, both in loading up and for getting to our apartment in Positano. Buses stop only twice in Positano — the road is all one way here so the bus stops at each end of town. To get into the middle, you walk. Remember the pictures of the Amalfi Coast. Nope — didn’t feel the need for that much exercise. The driver dropped us off right at our apartment, or at least at the bottom of the steps up to our apartment. Yup, the equivalent of about five floors up from the roadway!

This apartment in Positano is pretty cool — much like the one in Palermo, with several terraces. Roomy, good water pressure, clean, all the amenities, and the views are quite nice.

After a not-so-great lunch in one of the local restaurants which appeared to be geared to the tourists, we walked around our level of town and took in the Positano Duomo.

We decided that if the weather was good, and it was, we would head off to the island of Capri Tuesday morning. We arrived in the Capri Harbor about 10:00 AM and had a wonderful day. We took the funiculare up to the main city of Capri, did a bit of shopping and had a great lunch. Capri is as pretty as anticipated. But, it like so many other places we have visited, has fallen for the tourists. And although it is October, there were still tons of them present here — in the way, oblivious to anyone else around them, and just pains. Nonetheless, it was a great day trip, especially since it was unplanned until Monday night!

In part because of the tourists, we found an off-the-beaten-path restaurant for lunch. We had only wanted something small and light but the waiter was so excited about the special of the day that we succumbed. Scorpion fish caught that morning, split between the three of us, with linguine. We got to look at the fish laid out in front of us before deciding, and before it was cooked. Outstanding meal.

Headed back to Positano at 3:30 and after picking up a couple of things at the supermercato, came on home. Little wine, little cheese and prosciutto and a few grapes served as supper!

While enjoying that little snack, we heard what sounded like a marching band playing a couple of marches. We ran out to the balcony searching for the parade or band or anything. Did not see anything but then, all quiet. Turns out that Positano is conducting a Festival of the Virgin Mary. The clue? About 30-45 minutes after the first round of music, the band cranks up again, this time down on the roadway at the entrance to the steps up to our apartment. There is a wide section in the road and a little bus park and here was the band, along with about two dozen altar boys, choir members and priests in white vestments, with a statue of the Virgin Mary. A couple more numbers, a prayer and away they marched, headed into the center of town. Then the church bells began ringing — had to be fifteen minutes. Then a man sings Ave Maria that brings on the goose bumps. Then quiet. Then an absolutely wonderful fireworks show, rivaling most we’ve seen in the States. This was followed by more quiet. Next it sounded as if mass or some sort of evening prayers were being said down at the church where the procession ended. And now, although we think the ceremony is complete for today, there is a concert or band of some sort playing down near the church and city center.

We didn’t know. Didn’t have a clue, and yet this day on this visit to Positano turned out to be absolutely wonderful, the best day of our entire time in Italy so far. As much as we had hoped we would be able to do so, we just could not upload the video files of the celebration last night. We plan to do a little more research on potential happenings in the other locations we will be visiting while here in Italy. With Naples being next, chances are good.

Wednesday, 8 Ottobre.  Positano

A down day mostly. We washed clothes and went out to pick up a few things at the grocery store, a few gifts and to check out the shopping. Mostly though, we just took a break, got back into our Slow Italy mode.

Thursday and Saturday, 9-11 Ottobre. Positano 

Actually our down days aren’t really couch potato days! We try to hit the streets early in the morning before all the tourists arrive, gives us some exercise and a chance to enjoy the area when it is all quiet and the vendors are just setting up their restaurants and shops. It is the most pleasant time of day and we get some great photos.

We walked up the hills into different areas of Positano, saw another church, and different views of the sea, so beautiful, it is just breathtaking.

Today, Saturday, we will eat lunch and dinner out. We managed to buy our food every day so that we had nothing left over. We leave Positano in the morning and head to Naples for the week where we have another apartment. We are looking forward to the food in Naples.

Below are a few photos we have taken during the past few days. Enjoy!

Ciao until we meet again in Naples!