Europe 2022

Welcome to Florence

7/23 – Jim, Michele and I hopped on the train to Florence and left Milan Saturday morning. Once we arrived, we took a cab to our apartment which we rented in the town center not far from the Uffizi Gallery. It is a great location but very crowded. The cab driver could not get down our street due to all the tourists. He ended up driving around to an intersection at the beginning of our street. Our apartment was #1 via Neri so we just hopped out and went right to the door – 20 feet from the intersection. It is a very nice apartment with plenty of room. Boy is this area noisy though, even up here on the third floor. Makes sleeping very difficult so we are debating leaving and going someplace else.

The first day we just walked around locally to get a feel for what is right near us and since it is Florence, the one thing you smell is leather! The leather shops are everywhere and boy, the jackets, purses, bags, everything, are just beautiful.

Almost directly across the street!

Michele and I have been doing some shopping so we are having a good time with that. We only go out for less than an hour because of the heat. Found some nice restaurants with good food so I have not been doing much cooking.

One of the locations where we bought leather products back in 2016 was along the side of Piazza Santa Croce so we walked over there to look for the shop. The church is there of course – a beautiful exterior I might add. We did not go inside this visit as we have lots of photos from our two weeks in Florence back then. And we did not find that leather shop. Now it appears there are only carts with bags, jackets, gloves as well as carts with other tourist products hanging off the sides. (photo later)

Shops and carts line the left and right sides of the plaza.

Monday we went to the Mercato Centrale which is huge and has anything you might want to eat. We picked up some stuff so we could either snack or cook. Takes a while to get through the market but if you go early you can roam around without too many people in there. Michele was shocked when she saw it and enjoyed buying a few things for herself.

Then there is the Basilica of San Lorenzo with its unfinished front facade which we passed on the way to the Central Market. However, the inner courtyards and the nave are beautiful.
The Green Cloister of the Church of San Lorenzo is not so unfinished though!
And the interior of the Basilica is pretty nice as well.
Mercato Centrale (huge building on right) Streets on 3 of the 4 sides are filled with carts like these.
Just a few veggies at one of maybe a dozen vegetable stands in the Central Market.

Tuesday, we got tickets for the Hop-on, Hop-off bus tour of Florence and it was absolutely fantastic. We picked it up in a beautiful area across the river from our apartment where there are tree lined streets, beautiful homes and a lot of history. The day started out cloudy and there was a wonderful breeze as we sat on the top level of the open air bus. We enjoyed it so much we actually stayed on and went around twice. Took a few photos so we could remember what we saw and where we were.

Our walk along the Arno River to the bus stop.
Looking back into central Florence
Touring the Ricorboli neighborhood of Florence. And there is a better breeze further back from the windshield!
City wall around South border of Florence
Triumphal Arch of the Lorraine
New “art” effort throughout the city.
Our favorite!

After that we stopped for lunch near the apartment and then headed back upstairs to cool down and relax. Michele and I did a little more shopping later in the afternoon. Shopping in Florence is really fun. There is so much to see and buy here and the prices are not bad. I just happened to find a gorgeous light lavender leather purse. Yeah, I seem to be collecting purses again.

Michele is waiting on her pizza & Jim has the olive oil for his salad.
And I tried my first hamburger and fries in four months!

Here it is Wednesday and our son Chad joined us in Florence. Chad arrived around lunchtime so we all went out to eat. It really is so nice to have both children with us on a few weeks of this trip.

Chad, Michele and Jim on Via dei Calzaiuoli

Thursday we all went to the big central market so Chad could check it out. He enjoys markets, loves to cook and knows what to buy plus he speaks Italian very well so that is very helpful. Since Chad has been here with us, we’ve walked to both markets, which are wonderful.

Chad peruses produce inside the Central Market
Never-ending fresh vegetables!

The second market is il Mercato di Sant’Ambroglio and it is on the eastern side of il Centro sort of behind the Basilica of Santa Croce. Inside the market were mostly clothes and household wares. The produce was outside under what look like parking lot covers or roofs. An interesting aside at both markets were the proprietors at the meat booths “carving” or slicing the thin slices of prosciutto from the intact or complete hams using long, maybe 15 – 18″ knives, manually. They were not using the mechanical, electric slices you see at the deli or the meat department in our supermarkets. The prosciutto slices were just as thin though and equally tasty!

One half of the outdoor, produce section of the Saint Ambroglio market.

Also on Thursday, we transitioned to a new apartment, not only new to us but it appears to be recently renovated such that we think we are the first to use it. We moved for a couple of reasons but mostly because of the noise at night. Our first night here we were awaken at 4:30 in the morning to several women loudly arguing and seemingly about to get into a fight before the dozen or so women and men split the antagonists apart and they all marched off. Then on any night, the tourists, college-aged folk and even the locals are out walking up and down the streets and alleys, talking loudly and non-stop, carrying on until 1 or 2:00 in the morning. Add to that the motorcycles and garbage trucks, we just knew we’d be zombies before long.

Living and kitchen area of Apt #2.

This second apartment has much more space and the living area is more conducive to sitting around and talking or whatever. It has three bedrooms, each with its own bathroom, greatly appreciated by our adult children! However, we didn’t choose very wisely – the noise at night is almost as maddening as the first location. We are two blocks from the Uffizi and the large Piazza della Signora (nice for evening concerts!) and three blocks from the Duomo – this apartment is still in the Centro. Then there is this amateur group who plops down on the church steps next door and puts on mini-concerts beginning about 10:00. Their only audience consists of two or three people who we think are members of their immediate families! We just didn’t realize how late everyone stays up and roams the streets. We’ve stayed in 18 apartments now on this trip and these are the only two where we have fretted about getting enough sleep at night! Anyway, more research and no apartments in the centers of larger and more popular cities next time we are in Italy.

Palazza Vecchio and the tourists in the Piazza della Signora. Uffizi is the light colored building in the corner.
The Duomo, its bell tower and the baptistery are three blocks over.

To celebrate our new and surprisingly large abode (we did not yet know about the noise here) we went across the river for lunch – a nice, typical pranzo. To cross over the Arno River, we used the world famous Florence landmark, il Ponte Vecchio. Gold and jewelry shops galore line the road inside the structures you see! That bridge must hold more gold than what is in Fort Knox.

Ponte Vecchio (old bridge) crosses the Arno River.

The restaurant was not on our list, it was very late in the lunch period (it was after 2:00 PM) and not much was open, but again, buona fortuna shone on us. Actually, we had a restaurant in mind but when we arrived at the address, it was no longer there. (Serious note: the internet websites are not always accurate about operating hours (orario) or if your target store/restaurant is even still in business!) Anyway, this restaurant was not too crowded, our table was in an inner courtyard and not on the street, and while it has been hot, there was enough shade and breeze that we were comfortable.

Our antipasto

Each of us ordered a different primo and I’ll simply post them all.

Spaghetti with pomodori and ricotta salata
Osso bucco
Gnudi – cheese and spinach balls
Chicken cutlets on a bed of arugula with shaved parmesan

We continue the routine of walking around in the morning and taking short walks in the afternoon. The bars at night are fun because the weather is slightly cooler and we can sit outside, enjoy a drink and the night sights which can be very entertaining.

We are in Florence until the 5th so we will continue to stroll around and enjoy the sights and foods of Florence and of course, each other’s company.

Standard

5 thoughts on “Welcome to Florence

  1. Juli Abbott says:

    What great photos! I recognize those churches from my architecture history classes, fun to see them. And everyone looks so happy! And all of those primi look delicious. And now I clearly have to go to Kroger so I can make pasta for lunch. Thanks for sharing your adventures! I’m looking forward to hearing more stories when you’re back in Georgia.

  2. Juli Abbott says:

    One follow-up comment: clearly the spaghetti is Michele’s lunch with all of that cheese, and I think the osso buco is Chad’s. And for the other two, I would guess gnudi for Fran and chicken for Jim.

  3. I want to shop for leather products in Florence. I remember a lot of Florence from our trip and of course the food looks delicious. So nice to have Michele and Chad with you as well. Such great memories.

  4. Jan Conte says:

    Once again you tickle our appetites. The food looks amazing. Florence is beautiful and so is your apartment. Can’t wait to talk about it in person. Miss you.

    Welcome home❤️❤️🤗🤗

Comments are closed.