Off to Siena and San Gimignano Saturday morning. It was a mixed tour including folk from lots of countries, from Malta and Italy to Korea and New Zealand to Mexico and Ecuador to Germany. We met several nice couples, particularly the newlyweds from Mexico who we hope to get back together with on the other side of the Atlantic.
The Carthusian Monastery and cloisters at Galluzzo just outside of Florence.
Fog just South of Florence as we head into the Tuscan countryside.
Perfect weather for our tour with lots of sunshine. Our first stop was in Monteriggioni, Tuscany where there is a castle with a piazza and many little shops and a beautiful view of the Tuscan countryside. It was small so we were only there long enough to look around, snap photos and enjoy a caffè.
Wall and porta (door or gate) into Monteriggioni, a hilltop fortress which helped protect this part of Tuscany and the Via Francigena in the olden days.
Ramp or stairway down to a porta in the South wall.
Tuscan fields from the South wall of Monteriggioni.
Jim walks back up from the porta in the South Wall.
As Walter Cronkite would say, “And you were there!” And I was!
And so was Jim. A neat little town and fort.
The village church on the North side of the piazza.
Vineyards and countryside between Monteriggioni and Siena
Then it was off to Siena, ah beautiful Siena. When we arrived here we met with local guides to break up the group since it was so large. Of course we went to the Piazza di Campo where they have the famous horse races twice each year – the Palio. I will say that would be a sight to behold but nothing I want to experience. The locals and visitors willing to pay from $150 to over $500 all gather in the piazza and there are so many people that they get there early in the morning and stand together like squished sardines in the middle of the piazza inside the race track area for the entire day hardly able to move, until the race starts in the early evening and runs for 1 ½ minutes! It is something that for the tourist could be very dangerous but the locals are used to this and look forward to it every year. I’d be scared half to death in a crowd that size with horses racing around the outer perimeter.
Traffic can not enter old Siena so we were let off about a mile away. On the walk, we were welcomed by the Duomo (left) and the Church of Saint Caterina.
Center of the Piazza di Campo looking out. The race track for the horses is inside the buildings but outside the stone posts you can barely see. The awnings, tables and chairs are all removed and that track area is filled with clay and dirt for the race.
Torre del Mangia (Tower of eating) – the lead worker when the tower was built is said to have exclaimed that he builds (works) to eat, hence the name. Notice also the stone poles that form the inner boundary of the race track. The entire center of the piazza is filled with spectators (28,000) for the races. One guide said a total of 55,000 people attend, adding in the roofs, windows, balconies and some bleachers that are installed.
There are nine contradas or districts that comprise Siena and its sections. These contradas complete in the races, each with only one rider. It is fierce competition. This is the symbol or coat of arms for the rhinoceros contrada.
The fountain in the piazza. The water comes from a mile or two away underground like an Artesian Well and is fresh and clean enough to drink. It is crystal clear.
We walked around the town enjoying the narrow roads, no cars thankfully, plenty of shops, eateries, gelato and people. We learned a lot about Siena and its people and saw the beautiful Cathedral which was once again, fantastic. I truly don’t know how the Italians did it/do it with all their Churches, Cathedrals and Duomos and none look the same yet all so very beautiful. It’s amazing!
The Siena Duomo, dome and bell tower.
The central nave of the Duomo. Columns and walls, interior and exterior or in white marble and a black-green marble, the colors of Siena.
Half of the organ pipes, left side. Notice the horizontal horns at the bottom of the vertical pipes.
One section showing 10 busts of the 172 busts of Popes that line the upper level of the walls.
Ceiling of the Piccolomini Library which is entered from within the Basilica. We think it more bright and beautiful than the Sistine Chapel although perhaps not as revered.
Partial wall of the Piccolomini Library. The artwork tells the story of Siena’s favorite son, Cardinal Enea Silvio Piccolomini, who eventually became Pope Pius II.
Front facade of the Duomo which faces West. Very nice main door and frame.
Three large mosaics on the gables of the façade were made in Venice in 1878. The large central mosaic depicts the Coronation of the Virgin Mary.
After our tour was over, we went to a restaurant where they had prepared a very delicious pranzo (lunch) for us. Salad, pasta, pork and potatoes, oh and wine as well!
Basilica of San Domenico where lies the head of Saint Caterina. The remainder of her body lies in Rome. She died in Rome but the people of Siena made such a stink that the Pope decided to split her body and sent the head to Siena. It is encased in a bronze mask.
After lunch we went to San Gimignano where we saw another lovely Tuscan town with many shops and a free gelato from the tour people. I gave my ticket to Jim so he could have two. Although gelato is very delicious, to me it is ice cream which I do not really care about. So Jim got a treat and had both of them, now he has to walk more.
San Gimignano, another “fort” town along the Via Francigena, an ancient road used by pilgrims, merchants and even the Knights of the crusades. It is usually considered to have its starting point in Canterbury, England and ends in Rome. A lot of people walk sections of that road, or all of it, nowadays and there is an organization supporting the walks or hikes.
A couple of the 14 towers that the still remain. There were 72 towers in the heyday, created in part due to competition between families – who had the highest – but also for protection and to keep an eye out for the bad guys.
World champion gelateria for at least 10 years running. And I don’t eat it!
Would have been fun to stay in this town a little longer because it looked as though the shopping was wonderful but this was not meant to be and probably a good thing for Jim’s wallet. Also, there were a couple of spots for taking panoramic photos and we did even though we know photos do not really capture what the human eye and brain can absorb. Tuscany is beautiful.
There were lots of shops with some pretty neat products but — we’ll wait until Florence.
Every vista is wonderful.
Next was the town of Chianti for a wine tasting. No, I don’t drink wine either but that doesn’t mean I wasn’t going to taste it all! The vineyard produces their own wine and olive oil and I’m going to tell you, it was all delicious. We had salami, cheese, bread with olive oil and crackers to taste the peppered olive oil and the white truffle oil.
The road to Chianti, and just as beautiful as every travelogue suggests.
Getting closer! Grape vine leaves were beginning to turn with the cooler temps.
All of it was terrific but I especially loved the truffle oil, wow was that yummy! We could order whatever we wanted and have it shipped home so we took advantage of that and ordered a few things.
Chianti is the town where Under the Tuscan Sun was filmed – I kept looking for the house Frances bought but I couldn’t find it. I just thought it was cool to be in the same area of the filming even if I didn’t recognize any of it. Guess I’ll have to go home and watch the movie again. It’ll be even more special now that I’ve seen the town and Siena.
Looking over our shoulder, we were able to bid San Gimignano farewell.
We arrived back home around 7 and while Jim and I were walking to the apartment, I announced I was hungry! Jim said really? Yup, I want pizza so we stopped for pizza. Hey we can diet when we go home; for now it’s let’s eat, drink and be merry!
Sunday was our day to go to the Duomo for Mass and they had the organ player so it was really beautiful. After that we went to our favorite little restaurant here, Le Fonticine (little fountain). Unfortunately, the fountain which serves as the storefront is being restored so we couldn’t see it. They are having a special dinner for the unveiling of the restoration in December! Darn, I’d love to have seen that.
Steak Florentine – pranzo at Le Fonticine. And this one was cooked more than normal standards in case you are thinking it looks awful raw!
For lunch Jim and I shared the Florentine steak, a large piece of beef once cooked, is sprinkled with olive oil and a little salt (that’s the Florentine touch) and it is delicious. The weather was chilly so the afternoon was spent indoors relaxing and getting ready for another day of sightseeing tomorrow.
Monday – a good day but not an outside day for Jim. A little more vulnerable to colds when out at night and in cool, damp air, especially when he does not wear a hat or adequate clothing, Jim has a head cold today and with a couple of airplane flights coming up, we decided to work on clearing sinuses and the head cold. Still, we popped out to the Mercato and picked up fresh veggies for soup along with some fresh bread and oranges and OJ! So far he seems to be perking up. We also took some time to evaluate what we might need to do to pack things up for the flights home!
This is probably our last post from Florence. Last few days will be spent doing a little bit more shopping, eating and packing. Ciao from Florence, see you back in the states!
Wow oh wow! I have enjoyed your trip so much!! Didn’t get to read it as you wrote and travelled, but caught up with you tonight (10/26). I have not been receiving your facebook notes – had to start a new account so I think many folks thought my asking them to be a friend didn’t thinking I had been “hacked!” Cindy said you are ready to head home on Friday. Pray you will have a safe trip.
Pictures and writing has been wonderful! Thanks for sharing! Love and miss you guys!